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V-Li’s Thai Cuisine

06
Oct
2010

V-Li’s Thai Cuisine

Posted ByMolly Lehman, Contributing Editor of Buzzbin Magazine
CategoriesHeadlines
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V-Li's Thai Cusine

When I go to restaurants, I’m not an appetizer person.  I think it’s because they seem so excessive- huge platters of nachos, vats of butter-filled artichoke dip, deep-fried wontons and lasagna slices.  When I tackle these, I’m nowhere near ready or able to enjoy the meal that’s supposed to follow. There’s a Jim Gaffigan sketch that imagines explaining American meals to someone from a starving country: “Appetizers? Yeah, that’s the food we eat before we eat our food.” It seems as ridiculous as that. And yet there’s one restaurant where I can never resist, where the concept of an appetizer that’s  both restrained and tempting still seems in effect: the delicate small plates at V-Li’s Thai Cuisine in Canal Fulton. Ordering a sampler to share will get you selections of creamy, spicy chicken satay with peanut sauce, flaky spring rolls, soft, pork-filled steamed dumplings, and small, seasoned patties called tod mun. None are larger than a few bites, and each are designed not to satiate, but to whet the appetite for what’s to come. This November, V-Li’s will mark its 13th year in business at the small storefront in downtown Canal Fulton.  The family business is run by its namesake, Vilairat Van Sickel, along with her husband Roger and the couple’s son Phillip.  Vilairat moved to the area from Thailand in 1973 and has been cooking since childhood, first for her family in Thailand and later professionally.  The restaurant, with its loyal and growing clientele, has been guided by her expertise in the kitchen. The menu is crammed with evidence of V-Li’s homeland, with other Asian influences kept to a minimum.  The habits of fusion restaurants, such as adding familiar Chinese dishes or offering a sushi menu, aren’t to be found here.  “We try to keep it as authentically Thai as possible,” said Phillip. Offerings on the menu are often familiar like the noodle dish pad thai, a customer favorite, which V-Li’s keeps spicier rather than sweet.  Other flavors may not be quite as recognizable, but are equally satisfying.  The grilled honey pork features medallions of tenderloin served with a honeyed, spicy broth that’s pure heaven, and the simple but deeply flavored soups feature unexpected ingredients such as cinnamon, coconut milk, anise, lemongrass, and ganlanga, an Indonesian herb.  Three curries- red, yellow, and emerald- are staples on the menu; the yellow curry, with a rich gold broth, cauliflower and potatoes, is especially good. Specials are available occasionally and often center on new products or produce.  “It depends on what we can find, and it’s often based on seasonality,” said Phillip.  Two curries now available, khing and masaman, feature green beans and butternut squash, two vegetables currently at their peak. For dessert, don’t miss the Siam Sundae, a family-friendly presentation of honey and chocolate drizzled coconut ice cream paired with fried wonton-wrapped banana slices. Beer, wine and cocktails are available, including Singha, a light Thai beer. V-Li’s has earned a following not only in its small-town setting but in areas that require some driving including Akron, Canton, and Cleveland.  “I’m always surprised at the number of people who come from Wooster and Orrville,” said Phillip.  Perhaps those repeat customers are behind V-Li’s accolades, which landed it in the number-one spot for Asian Restaurants inNorthern Ohio Live magazine three times. Upstairs, the Rose Room is available to be reserved for groups up to 40, although V-Li’s doesn’t accept reservations for their downstairs dining area.  If you’ve got a group and don’t want to wait, Phillips recommends avoiding the Friday and Saturday dinner rushes around 7- although if you’re up for a wait, take a stroll along the canal and shops downtown. V-Li’s Thai Cuisine 129 N. Canal St., Canal Fulton 44614 330-854-5344 www.vlisthaicuisine.com Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 11:30-2:30, 5-9, Friday 11:30-2:30, 5-9:30; Saturday 4-9:30; closed Sunday & Monday