“Iris” is a Greek word. Its meaning, “rainbow”, comes from the diverse range of colors in which irises appear. Other parts of the world compare the bloom to flags or swords, and view it as a symbol of heritage. Stylized irises appear, as fleurs-de-lis, on dozens of national flags, emblems and coats of arms.
But forget that when you head to Iris Restaurant in Canton’s art district.
It’s not designated that for the flower or any other symbol or historical insignia — it’s named after chef and owner Angus McIntosh’s aunt, an 80-year-old artist who plays the guitar, banjo and violin and whose paintings are displayed on walls throughout the restaurant.
The paintings alternate the space with several family photographs — appropriate, since McIntosh’s son, Angus McIntosh, Jr., followed his father’s footsteps. Now a chef as well, he works at Iris with his father.
This is the kind of comforting, surprisingly down-to-earth attitude that helps Iris define itself. The three-and-a-half-year-old restaurant is the first for owner Angus McIntosh, though he’s been a chef since 1980.
Iris Restaurant features American food, American wine and American music. A jukebox sits next to the open kitchen and switches from classic rock to modern rock within moments of a Rolling Stones song ending. A single television above the square bar is showing the current NBA game.
McIntosh spent many years working in the high-end restaurant industry, and wanted to create a restaurant for everyday people. He wanted an affordable restaurant with a menu scaled down so patrons could recognize the food instead of being confused by it.
He somewhat succeeds in his goal: The menu contains appetizers such as grilled calamari and three-cheese artichoke dip. I opted for the white bean hummus with roasted garlic and lemon, served with homemade corn tortilla chips.
Most of the entrees start around $20 and include common favorites with a twist. For example, instead of plain snapper, you might see sweet potato-crusted snapper. Filet mignon gets jazzed up with apple-smoked bacon.
The more affordable items for everyday people come in the sandwich, salad and pasta section. Sandwiches are mostly under $10 and are served with chips.
My vegetarian friend, who was kind enough to keep me company for the night, couldn’t find many veg-friendly selections among the entrées. There were some options for in the pasta sections, but overall it felt a bit lacking.
Ultimately, he chose the salad special containing Parmesan and artichoke hearts. I was a little surprised by the size of the salad portion and was happy my friend decided to add on a kid’s version of the pepper-jack macaroni and cheese. I tried both of his dishes and they were quite tasty.
I decided to order the fettuccini autumno ($12.75) with added salmon, a delicious blend of butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, carrots and green beans with salmon that fell apart with the touch of my fork and melted in my mouth.
The restaurant has an amazing drink menu. Guinness, seasonal Leinenkugel and Bell’s were all on tap, while more than 20 choices fell in the domestic and import sections.
I ordered the Pomatini, one of the 16 martini selections, though I was tempted by the 15 other non-martini cocktail selections, too. The menu includes a healthy list of wine selections and after-dinner drinks, too. If you can’t find something on this menu, I have a feeling the bartender on duty can whip together a drink that suits your mood.
I tried desperately not to eat too much so I could experience the dessert menu, which sounded lovely. Pumpkin Frangelico cheesecake with a ginger crust sounded divine to me. But my friend and I decided to share (since we were just too full) the house dessert: Iris Bread Pudding.
Although bread pudding is delicious, it has never been my favorite. It is, however, one of my friend’s favorites. And we both agreed: The bread pudding was absolutely amazing. Smothered in a whiskey sauce, the flavors were complex, rich and supremely satisfying.
Iris is always looking to shake things up a little, including seasonal menu changes, open-mic night on Thursdays and special events and themes. In the past the restaurant has hosted a “Casablanca”-themed night with Moroccan cuisine. This month, with February 14 approaching, chef Alfie Harkins is experimenting with creating red and pink dishes using natural ingredients. The restaurant clearly takes the time to create an experience for its patrons.
The Iris Restaurant truly does offer great cuisine and a great atmosphere. The lights weren’t too bright, the open kitchen felt cozy and our waitress was delightful and extremely helpful. In spite of its unaffectedly casual and comfortable environment, Iris is a place you should look nice for. Jeans will suffice, but make sure you have a nice shirt or blouse.
If you’re looking for a night of great food and lovely decorum, Iris Restaurant will provide a charming experience — right down to the fresh lavender irises on each table.
