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One Tanked Trip to Market Garden Brewery

One Tanked Trip was especially fun this month as I headed to a newly opened regional brewery. Located in the heart of Ohio City in Cleveland, Market Garden Brewery has been a work in progress for a while. Originally scheduled to open nearly a year ago, owner Sam McNulty’s latest creation is a much-needed throwback to more traditional craft beers that won’t try to out-hop or out-malt the others: The strongest beer on the menu is no higher than 7 percent ABV. While I love extreme beers just as much as the next guy (okay, maybe a little more than the next guy), it’s wicked cool for a company to take passion in bringing beer to its truest form. McNulty is no stranger to beer and food. He’s also the owner of three more Ohio City staples: Belgian beer house The Bier Markt, Italian restaurant Bar Cento and culinary cocktail bar Speakeasy. For Market Garden Brewery, he teamed up with brewmaster Andy Tveekrem, who previously worked for Cleveland’s famed Great Lakes Brewing Company and craft-beer legends Dogfish Head. The result is a beautiful brewery with beer and spirit bars, plenty of seating indoor and out and a killer beer garden, which McNulty says plans to be active year-round. I was fortunate enough to catch McNulty on his rounds between stores (the other establishments are located just across the street), and scored both a quick tour of the brewery and enough time to chat over a pint. Upcoming additions to the brewery include a rooftop patio, a bike-rental service (featuring bike baskets that can accommodate two growlers) and a proposed Christmas ale sure to please Cleveland craft-beer connoisseurs. As with most brewpubs, Market Garden Brewery offers growlers, a selection of guest beers from Ohio-based companies (Great Lakes, Buckeye, Fat Head’s, Lagerheads, Thirsty Dog, The Brew Kettle and Rockmill) and an array of appetizers, sandwiches and entrees. Another clever menu addition is four beer cocktails. Take a chance with the Shoreway Cooler, which mixes their Progress Pilsner with housemade honey, gin, lemon juice, Lillet and simple syrup, or maybe the Sweet & Stout, made from the house stout, Pernod Wash, Godiva Dark, Cynar and Aztec chocolate bitters. I ordered the Market Garden Beef Burger, a half-pound patty with cheddar, chimichurri, veggies and aioli. The homemade chips it arrived alongside are absolutely to die for. I had to begin the evening with the house IPA, so I ordered a glass of Cluster Fuggle India Pale Ale. As the most powerful beer in the batch, registering at 7 percent ABV, the IPA is a gentle giant I found perfectly balanced the sweetness with the satisfying bitterness hopheads love. For my second run, I decided to change things up and attack Market Garden’s stout, named after the church that sits directly behind the brewery. St. Emeric’s Stout is much lighter than you would expect, with a dry finish and a beautifully dark head. While most stout admirers live for a strong coffee or chocolate taste, Market Garden’s contribution has a nice smooth sweetness, with caramel and roasted malt. Delicious, in my opinion, though not for everyone. Next up was the Test Market Ale, a simple 5-percent amber ale with a mild hoppy bitterness throughout. While it was my least favorite of the night, I still found it to be a step up from most amber ales I’ve had in the past. For my last beer, I ordered what was labeled the special brew: Gordian Strong Ale, a malty ale clocking in at 6.3 percent that pretty much blew Test Market out of the water. A delightful drink to end a great night. As if the beer menu was made specifically for me, upcoming beers advertised included Black Hops 484 India Pale Ale, the Super Kriek Ohio Cherry Wheat (a cherry beer brewed with wheat-beer yeast and three pounds of cherries a barrel) and what is sure to be a personal favorite of mine, the Market Centennial Extra IPA to celebrate Cleveland’s 100th birthday. Market Garden Brewery is open Monday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to 2:30 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. and Sunday 10 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Food is available until half an hour before closing time.